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120 lines
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120 lines
8.2 KiB
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<title>Arduino Reference - ArduinoPro </title>
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<div class="title"><a href='http://arduino.cc/en'>Arduino</a></div>
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<p><a class='wikilink' href='http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Buy'>Buy</a>
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<a class='wikilink' href='http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Software'>Download</a>
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<a class='wikilink' href='Guide_index.html'>Getting Started</a>
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<a class='wikilink' href='http://arduino.cc/en/Tutorial/HomePage'>Learning</a>
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<a class='wikilink' href='index.html'>Reference</a>
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<a class='wikilink' href='http://arduino.cc/en/Main/Hardware'>Hardware</a>
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<a class='wikilink' href='FAQ.html'>FAQ</a>
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<h2>Arduino Pro</h2>
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<p>The Arduino Pro is intended for advanced users who require flexibility and low-cost. It comes with the minimum of components (no on-board USB or pin headers) to keep the cost down. It's a good choice for a board you want to leave embedded in a project. Please note that there are multiple variants of the board which operate at different voltages and clock speeds. You need to know if you have the 3.3V / 8 <span class='wikiword'>MHz</span> version or the 5V / 16 <span class='wikiword'>MHz</span> version.
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</p>
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<p class='vspace'></p><h3>Uploading Sketches</h3>
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<p>The board comes without built-in USB circuitry, so an off-board USB-to-TTL serial convertor must be used to upload sketches. For the 3.3V Arduino Pro boards, this can be a <a class='urllink' href='http://www.ftdichip.com/Products/EvaluationKits/TTL-232R-3V3.htm' rel='nofollow'>FTDI TTL-232R-3V3 USB - TTL Level Serial Converter Cable</a> or the <span class='wikiword'>SparkFun</span> <a class='urllink' href='http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=8772' rel='nofollow'>FTDI Basic Breakout Board (3.3V)</a>. For the 5V Arduino Pro boards, use a <a class='urllink' href='http://www.ftdichip.com/Products/EvaluationKits/TTL-232R.htm' rel='nofollow'>TTL-232R USB - TTL Level Serial Converter</a> or the <span class='wikiword'>SparkFun</span> <a class='urllink' href='http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=9115' rel='nofollow'>FTDI Basic Breakout Board (5V)</a>. (You can probably also get away with using a 5V USB-to-serial convertor with a 3.3V board and vice-versa, but it's not recommended.)
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</p>
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<p class='vspace'></p><p>If using the FTDI cable on Windows, you'll need to make one configuration change to enable the auto-reset. With the board connected, open the Device Manager (in Control Panels > System > Hardware), and find the USB Serial Port under Ports. Right-click and select properties, then go to Port Settings > Advanced and check Set RTS on Close under Miscellaneous Options.
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</p>
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<p class='vspace'></p><p>For the 3.3V versions of the Arduino Pro, select <strong>Arduino Pro or Pro Mini (3.3V, 8 <span class='wikiword'>MHz</span>) w/ <span class='wikiword'>ATmega328</span></strong> or <strong>Arduino Pro or Pro Mini (3.3V, 8 <span class='wikiword'>MHz</span>) w/ <span class='wikiword'>ATmega168</span></strong> from the <strong>Tools > Board</strong> menu (depending on the microcontroller on your board). For the 5V versions of the Arduino Pro, select <strong>Arduino Duemilanove or Nano w/ <span class='wikiword'>ATmega328</span></strong> or <strong>Arduino Diecimila, Duemilanove, or Nano w/ <span class='wikiword'>ATmega168</span></strong>.
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</p>
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<p class='vspace'></p><p><br clear='all' />
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</p>
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<p class='vspace'></p><div><img src='http://arduino.cc/en/uploads/Guide/ArduinoProFTDICable.jpg' alt='' title='' /></div>
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<p class='vspace'></p><p><em>An Arduino Pro connected to (and powered by) an FTDI USB - TTL Level Serial Converter Cable. The green and yellow wires align with the words "green" and "yellow" written underneath the pins.</em>
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</p>
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<p class='vspace'></p><p><br clear='all' />
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</p>
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<p class='vspace'></p><div><img src='http://arduino.cc/en/uploads/Guide/ArduinoProFTDIBreakout.jpg' alt='' title='' /></div>
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<p class='vspace'></p><p><em>The Arduino Pro connected to (and powered by) a <span class='wikiword'>SparkFun</span> FTDI Basic Breakout Board (prototype version) and USB Mini-B cable.</em>
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</p>
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<p class='vspace'></p><h3>Power</h3>
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<p>The external USB-to-TTL serial convertor will power the Arduino Pro, regardless of the position of the switch. To use the board standalone, with no connection to a computer, it can be be powered by a battery or an external power supply (wall wart). You can solder the + and - wires of a battery connector to the corresponding holes on the board. For the 3.3V boards, you can connect a <span class='wikiword'>LiPo</span> battery (with JST connector) to the JST jack. Alternatively, solder a DC power jack into the three large holes on the board, and connect a DC power supply (center positive). When the switch is in the "Batt" position, the board will draw power from an attached battery; when it is in the "Ext." position, power comes from an external power supply. In either position, the board can be powered by the 6-pin USB header.
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</p>
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<p class='vspace'></p><div><img src='http://arduino.cc/en/uploads/Guide/ArduinoProBattery.jpg' alt='' title='' /></div>
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<p class='vspace'></p><p><em>A 3.3V Arduino Pro powered by a <a class='urllink' href='https://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=8483' rel='nofollow'>2000 mAh LiPo battery</a> from <span class='wikiword'>SparkFun</span>.</em>
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</p>
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<p class='vspace'></p><h3>Connectors</h3>
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<p>Any standard 0.1" spaced header can be soldered to the holes on the Arduino Pro. To use every pin requires two 6-pin header and two 8-pin headers. Bare wire can also be soldered directly to the holes. Note that the header spacing is compatible with Arduino shields.
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</p>
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<p class='vspace'></p><p>The text of the Arduino getting started guide is licensed under a
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<a class='urllink' href='http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/' rel='nofollow'>Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 License</a>. Code samples in the guide are released into the public domain.
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